Fresh & Breezy

[Richard] Olsen-Harbich is one of the deans of Long Island winemaking, with a tenure that dates to the 1980s. His experience shows in the Bedell Cab­ernet Franc North Fork of Long Island 2014 (89, $45), which offers a pure beam of red currant and bitter cherry fruit laced with subtle minerality and carried by moderate but persistent grip.

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